Every December 25th for the past 53 years the Feria of Cali begins. It is a long awaited event, complete with a countdown on the website from the end of the previous year’s festival until the next year’s feria. It is a five day long festival filled with salsa, live music, bull fighting, salsa, arguadiente, parades, horseback riding through the main streets, and more salsa. Being the Capital of Salsa the party opens with a Salsa parade, Salsódromo. The opening event attracts hundreds, if not thousands, of people filling stands and lining the street. The parade truly was a spectacular event. The dancers were as young as children and came from all over Cali, South America, Cuba, Puerto Rico, and New York. The dancers twirled and stepped to the salsa rhythm in their sparkling costumes under the hot sun with pride to be a part of this Caleño tradition.
During these five days the bars are filled with rumberos (partiers) young and old enjoying some firey arguadiente, live music, and dancing of their own. Outside of the bull fighting stadium, platforms are installed and the open fields become dance floors that are occupied until the early hours of the morning. Of course, attending bull fights is still a popular tradition among some Caleños, visiting Colombians, and tourists (I was not one of them).
Another event is the Cali Viejo Parade. This parade almost tells the story of Cali; it gives a good understanding of the history and what it means to be Caleño. There are groups who represent the European Settlers and the African Slaves that they brought, which also demonstrates the importance of sugar cane in Cali’s economy. Because of the African influence a popular genre of music that combines powerful percussion instruments, singing in African languages and Spanish accompanied by woman dancers in long flowing dresses have become an important part to the Valle de Cauca and Caleño culture and also, an unforgettable part of the parade. Although Colombia has had a turbulent history since the Spanish Settlers up to the recent past and even into the present, the Cali Viejo Parade brings out the pride to be Caleño and Colombian.
During the Cabalgata Caleños get on their best horse and show it off by riding through the main streets for the afternoon. There were two thousands horseback riders participating. This event truly demonstrates the country mountain and city culture mix that Cali has developed as the four lane highways are filled with horseback riders wearing their traditional hats, boots, and best jewelry. Once again it is not uncommon to see the spectators and the riders drinking arguadiente straight from the bottle, which usually makes it a lively event.
From an outsider’s perspective, I enjoyed seeing the streets filled with people of all ages enjoying the festivities and the streets lined with venders selling typical hats, bags, and souvenirs. I love how Cali’s “vaquero style” comes out as everyone wears their finest country style jeans and hats. It was interesting to see this “plastic” culture that Cali has become infamous for. I now understand what a butt implant is. As always, I have a huge appreciation for the costumes that were made and worn in both the Salsódromo Parade and the Cali Viejo Parade. Through the blur of yellow, red, and blue the pride that Caleños have for Cali and Colombia is more than evident.
sábado, 30 de abril de 2011
domingo, 27 de febrero de 2011
My First Cabalgata
Over Thanksgiving weekend, I ventured out on my first Colombian road trip. We had our car packed with our bags, food, arguadiente (the anis flavored typical alcohol of Colombia), and Risk…all ready for a weekend at the farm. We left the noisy, crowded city streets and headed to Salento. A small pueblo in the Coffee region of Colombia nestled in the Andes Mountains. It was one of my first looks into Colombia, along its breathtaking countryside. Unfortunately, I also got to see the damage from the heavy rains that Colombia experienced at the end of last year. As we twisted and turned through the hills and valleys up the mountains, I was listening to my friends Caleño dialect of Spanish with their “vos”, “maricas” y “guevon”. We also had their favorite music, The Beatles, playing in the background, not a bad soundtrack to accompany the lush green mountainside.
We finally arrived to the town center of Salento. It consists of one plaza with two “main” roads leading off of it. The center, of course, has its Spanish Colonial church as the focal point, and open area in the middle for people to rest and kids to play. The park area is surrounded by many little food stands, artisans selling their goods to locals and tourists, and jeeps waiting to take people through the mountainous roads. We walked up the colorful streets filled with tons of handmade crafts, restaurants, and coffee shops.
It was almost 11 am, the perfect time for a beer stop and then to head on our way to my friend, Camilo’s farm house. We walked into a bar, and I thought that I had gone back in time and the time had stopped for over fifty years. We even walked through western style swinging doors. Inside the bar, men were playing pool and enjoying their coffee as seemed the usual Saturday morning routine. We finished our drinks, and finished the rest of our journey to the farm house.
The short bit left of the trip seemed the perfect time to open the arguadiente. We were about to embark on a horseback riding trip through the mountains, normally called a Cabalgata in Colombia, which is more often than not includes the drinking of arguadiente straight from the bottle. This was my first time on a horse in about twenty years (the last experience wasn’t so positive…), so the arguadiente was the perfect anecdote to calm my nerves and help me remember that it is all apart of the adventure…
We mounted the horses just as the blue skies turned to gray and began to pour on us, a normal happening in Colombia during these past few months. We had ponchos, hats, and arguadiente so nothing was stopping us. Colombia’s national tree, La palma de cera (Wax palm), the tallest palm in Colombia, covers the misty mountainside making the view one of a kind. We adventured through the hills and trees, through herds of cows, up and down slopes. We had a coffee break at a secluded farm house. We drank arguadiente, we laughed and cried (Natalia), and had a photo shoot all on a rainy afternoon Cabalgata. There was a point on the trip where it was just me, my horse, and this incredible view, and I had to stop. I was in the Andes Mountains on a horse… never did I think that my life would take me here.
We passed the rest of the time on the farm playing Risk and dice games. Of course, the late night ended with Colombian ghost stories to make the night sleep on the farm more authentic. It was a journey in Colombia not to be forgotten.
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