La rumba se vive en Cali: La Feria de Cali

Every December 25th for the past 53 years the Feria of Cali begins. It is a long awaited event, complete with a countdown on the website from the end of the previous year’s festival until the next year’s feria. It is a five day long festival filled with salsa, live music, bull fighting, salsa, arguadiente, parades, horseback riding through the main streets, and more salsa. Being the Capital of Salsa the party opens with a Salsa parade, Salsódromo. The opening event attracts hundreds, if not thousands, of people filling stands and lining the street. The parade truly was a spectacular event. The dancers were as young as children and came from all over Cali, South America, Cuba, Puerto Rico, and New York. The dancers twirled and stepped to the salsa rhythm in their sparkling costumes under the hot sun with pride to be a part of this Caleño tradition.



During these five days the bars are filled with rumberos (partiers) young and old enjoying some firey arguadiente, live music, and dancing of their own. Outside of the bull fighting stadium, platforms are installed and the open fields become dance floors that are occupied until the early hours of the morning. Of course, attending bull fights is still a popular tradition among some Caleños, visiting Colombians, and tourists (I was not one of them).


Another event is the Cali Viejo Parade. This parade almost tells the story of Cali; it gives a good understanding of the history and what it means to be Caleño. There are groups who represent the European Settlers and the African Slaves that they brought, which also demonstrates the importance of sugar cane in Cali’s economy. Because of the African influence a popular genre of music that combines powerful percussion instruments, singing in African languages and Spanish accompanied by woman dancers in long flowing dresses have become an important part to the Valle de Cauca and Caleño culture and also, an unforgettable part of the parade. Although Colombia has had a turbulent history since the Spanish Settlers up to the recent past and even into the present, the Cali Viejo Parade brings out the pride to be Caleño and Colombian.
During the Cabalgata Caleños get on their best horse and show it off by riding through the main streets for the afternoon. There were two thousands horseback riders participating. This event truly demonstrates the country mountain and city culture mix that Cali has developed as the four lane highways are filled with horseback riders wearing their traditional hats, boots, and best jewelry. Once again it is not uncommon to see the spectators and the riders drinking arguadiente straight from the bottle, which usually makes it a lively event.

From an outsider’s perspective, I enjoyed seeing the streets filled with people of all ages enjoying the festivities and the streets lined with venders selling typical hats, bags, and souvenirs. I love how Cali’s “vaquero style” comes out as everyone wears their finest country style jeans and hats. It was interesting to see this “plastic” culture that Cali has become infamous for. I now understand what a butt implant is. As always, I have a huge appreciation for the costumes that were made and worn in both the Salsódromo Parade and the Cali Viejo Parade. Through the blur of yellow, red, and blue the pride that Caleños have for Cali and Colombia is more than evident.